Hat Size vs Head Shape

Why head shape matters as much as size

Two heads with the same circumference can need different hats, because circumference is only the distance around the head. Shape is the outline that distance makes, and a hat crown is made in one shape, so a round head and a long head will meet the same crown in different places. A round head in a long crown will pinch at the sides, while a long head in a round crown will gap at the sides and slide.

That is why a hat can be the right size on the label and still feel wrong on your head. The number tells you the size, and the shape tells you the crown. Both matter, and a hat that matches both will feel secure and comfortable, while a hat that matches only the number will pinch, gap or slip.

Round heads

A round head is nearly as wide as it is long when seen from above. Hats with a round crown suit it best, because the crown meets the head evenly all round. A round head in a long oval crown will feel tight at the temples, because the crown is narrower at the sides than the head is, and the pressure will build into a headache within half an hour.

Soft styles suit round heads well, because a beanie or a bucket hat moulds to the shape instead of fighting it. A firm hat needs more care, so try the hat on and check the temples first. If the temples pinch, try a rounder crown in the same size before you try a larger size, because the larger size will only add room where you do not need it.

Long oval heads

A long oval head is longer front to back than it is wide, which is the most common head shape. Most structured hats are made in a long oval crown, so a long head usually finds a good fit in a standard fedora or cowboy hat. The band should touch evenly at the front, back and sides, with no gap at the temples and no pressure at the forehead.

A long head in a round crown will gap at the sides, because the crown is wider than the head at the temples. The hat may feel fine at the front and back but slide from side to side, and a breeze may lift it. If a hat slides sideways but fits front to back, the crown is too round for your head, and a longer oval crown in the same size is the fix.

How to work out your head shape

Look down at a photo of the top of your head, or ask someone to trace around your head from above. Compare the width with the length. If the two are close, your head is round. If the length is clearly greater than the width, your head is a long oval. Most heads fall between the two, which is why most hats are made in a regular oval that suits the middle of the range.

Try hats on with the shape in mind. Put the hat on, check the temples for pinching, check the sides for gaps, and turn your head to see if the hat stays level. A hat that matches your shape will sit still without pressure, and you will not need to keep pushing it back into place. Note the crown shape that works, because it will guide every hat you buy next.

Shape, size and style together

Use size and shape together when you choose. Measure your head circumference in cm and find the fitted size in the hat size chart, then think about shape before you pick a style. A round head is safer in a soft style or a round crown, while a long head is safer in a standard structured hat. A boundary size with the wrong shape will feel worse than a boundary size with the right shape.

If you are between sizes and the shape is wrong too, fix the shape first. A hat in the right shape and the larger size can be adjusted with sizing tape, while a hat in the wrong shape will pinch or gap whatever size you pick. Our how should hats fit guide covers the fit points to check once size and shape are both right.