Direct answer
How to Care for Boots
Care for boots by brushing off dirt after each wear, cleaning the upper with a product made for the material, conditioning leather so it stays supple, drying boots away from direct heat, and storing them upright with support inside so the shaft and toe keep their shape. Good care keeps the fit you found, because dry, stiff leather stops moulding to the foot and a collapsed shaft creases in the wrong places. Start with boots that fit, using the Boots Size Calculator, then keep them that way.
Cleaning after each wear
Brush off mud and dirt after each wear, while it is still dry, because dried mud draws moisture out of leather and stiffens it. Use a soft brush for the upper and the shaft, and a stiffer brush for the sole and the welt, where mud collects. Wipe the upper with a damp cloth if it needs more than a brush, and let the boots dry before you put them away.
Clean suede and nubuck with a brush made for napped leather, brushing in one direction to lift the nap. Do not use water on suede unless the product is made for it, because water can stain the nap and leave marks. For synthetics, a damp cloth and mild soap are usually enough, and a soft brush will clear dirt from textured panels.
Conditioning leather so it stays supple
Leather dries out with wear and weather, and dry leather stiffens, cracks and stops moulding to the foot. Condition smooth leather every few months, or more often in dry weather, with a conditioner made for the leather type. Rub a small amount in with a soft cloth, let it soak in, and wipe off the excess so the surface does not feel greasy.
Do not condition suede or nubuck with a leather conditioner, because it will flatten the nap and darken the surface. Use a protector spray made for napped leather instead, applied before first wear and repeated through the season. Test any product on a hidden spot first, such as the inside of the shaft, to check the colour.
Drying boots the right way
Wet boots should dry slowly at room temperature, away from direct heat. Stuff them loosely with newspaper or paper towels to draw moisture out and to hold the shape of the toe and the shaft, and change the stuffing when it feels damp. A boot dried by a radiator or a heater can shrink, stiffen and crack, and the sole can separate from the upper.
Take out removable insoles and let them dry separately, because moisture collects under them and can smell. If the boots are lined, turn the top of the shaft down a little to let air into the lining, but do not fold the shaft hard, because a sharp fold will crease the leather. Give wet boots a full day to dry before you wear them again.
Waterproofing and weather protection
Protect boots before the wet season, not after they are already soaked. A waterproofing spray or wax made for the material will help water bead on the surface instead of soaking in, and it will keep the leather supple. Apply it to clean, dry boots, let it dry fully, and repeat it through the season as the coating wears off.
Rubber boots need little waterproofing, because the rubber itself keeps water out, but the seams and the lining still need care. Check the sole and the welt for gaps, and keep the boots clean so mud does not hide a split. A boot that leaks at the sole will not be fixed by a spray, and it needs a repair or a replacement.
Storage that keeps the fit
Store boots upright with support inside, a boot tree, a rolled magazine, or rolled paper, so the shaft stands straight and the toe keeps its shape. A boot that flops over in storage will crease across the shaft and the vamp, and those creases will press the foot when you wear the boots again. Keep pairs together and store them in a cool, dry place.
Do not store boots in a sealed plastic bag or a damp place, because trapped moisture can grow mould on leather and lining. Let boots air after wear before you put them away, and keep them out of direct sunlight, which fades colour and dries leather. A boot stored well will hold the fit you found for years.
Sole care and when to repair
Check the soles regularly for wear, especially at the outer edge of the heel and at the ball of the foot, where wear shows first. A sole worn thin on one side changes how the boot sits and can make the fit feel uneven, because the foot tilts inside the boot. A cobbler can replace a worn sole or a worn heel top piece before the damage reaches the upper.
Take boots for repair when the sole separates, the stitching loosens, or the zip sticks, rather than waiting for the problem to grow. A small repair is quick and cheap, while a sole that has separated fully can let water in and ruin the lining. Good repair keeps a well fitting boot in service for years, which is the point of buying a boot that fits in the first place.
Boots sizing tool
Use the Boots Size Calculator
Start with boots that fit by entering your measurements in the calculator, then use this care routine to keep that fit.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I condition leather boots?
Every few months, or more often in dry weather, with a conditioner made for smooth leather.
How should I dry wet boots?
Slowly at room temperature, stuffed loosely with paper to hold the shape, and away from direct heat.
Can I use leather conditioner on suede boots?
No. It will flatten the nap and darken the surface, so use a protector spray made for napped leather instead.
How should I store boots so they keep their shape?
Upright with support inside, such as a boot tree or rolled paper, in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight.
When should I take boots to a cobbler?
When the sole separates, the stitching loosens, the zip sticks, or the sole wears thin on one side.