How to Care for Heels

Clean heels after each wear

Wipe heels with a soft dry cloth after each wear to remove dust and dirt before it settles into the finish. For leather, use a slightly damp cloth and let the pair dry naturally, then apply a leather conditioner now and then to keep the upper supple. For suede, use a suede brush in one direction to lift the nap, and a suede protector spray before the first wear helps keep stains out.

For patent leather, a damp cloth is usually enough, and a soft dry cloth afterwards restores the shine. Never use harsh cleaners or a washing machine on heels, because water and heat can warp the sole, loosen the glue and change the fit. Clean the soles too, because dirt on the sole can mark floors and wear the grip unevenly.

Dry heels away from heat

If heels get wet, stuff them loosely with plain paper to hold the shape and let them dry at room temperature, away from radiators, heaters and direct sun. Heat can shrink leather, crack patent and warp the sole, which changes the fit in ways that cannot be undone. Replace the paper once it feels damp, and leave the pair to dry fully before you wear it again.

Never dry heels with a hair dryer or on a radiator, even when you are in a hurry. Slow drying keeps the shape, the glue and the finish intact, and it keeps the heel cup gripping the way it should. A pair that dries slowly will fit the same next time, while a pair dried fast may feel tighter or looser than before.

Replace worn heel tips early

The heel tip is the small cap on the bottom of the heel, and it wears down with walking. When the tip wears through, the heel itself starts to wear, which shortens the heel, changes the balance and can damage the shoe beyond repair. Check the tips regularly, and replace them as soon as the rubber looks thin or the metal pin shows through.

A cobbler can replace heel tips quickly and cheaply, and new tips restore the grip and the height at the same time. Worn tips also make the heel slip on smooth floors, so replacing them is a safety fix as well as a care fix. Keep a spare pair of tips in mind before a long event, and check them the day before you wear the heels.

Store heels so they keep their shape

Store heels upright, with the pair together, in their box or a dust bag, and keep them in a cool dry place. Stuff the toe box loosely with plain paper or a shoe tree made for heels, because that holds the shape and stops the upper collapsing. Do not pile heels on top of each other, because the weight can bend the heel and crease the upper.

Keep heels away from damp and from direct sun in storage, because damp can cause mould and sun can fade the colour. An ankle strap should be fastened loosely or laid flat, so it does not crease or pull the buckle out of shape. Good storage costs nothing and keeps the fit the same from one season to the next.

Protect the soles and the uppers

A thin sole protector, fitted by a cobbler, can extend the life of leather soles and improve grip on smooth floors. It also stops water soaking into the sole from below, which keeps the shoe drier and the fit more stable. Ask a cobbler about a protector when the heels are new, because it is easier to fit before the sole wears.

Spray suede and fabric uppers with a protector before the first wear, and reapply it after cleaning. For leather, a conditioner keeps the upper supple so it does not crack at the flex point near the toes. These small steps keep the upper fitting the way it did when you bought the pair, rather than tightening or loosening with age.

Know when a repair is worth it

A heel tip replacement, a loose strap repair or a sole protector is usually worth the cost, because the fix is small and the pair is otherwise sound. A broken heel, a cracked sole or a torn upper is a bigger job, and a cobbler can tell you whether the repair will hold or whether the pair has reached the end of its life. Ask before you commit to a large repair.

Keep the receipt and the box for a new pair until you are sure the fit is right, because a repair can affect a return. If the heels still fit well and the uppers are in good shape, a repair is often the better choice than a replacement, because a broken in pair that fits is hard to replace with a new pair that may fit differently.