Vest Fit by Body Shape

Broad chest and narrow waist

A broad chest with a narrow waist is the hardest shape to fit in a vest, because the chest and the waist point to different sizes. If you buy for the chest, the waist hangs loose. If you buy for the waist, the buttons pull. Start with the size that fits your chest, because a vest that pulls at the buttons cannot be worn comfortably, and then look for a cut with waist shaping, side adjusters or a drawstring hem to take in the waist.

A suit vest with a back adjuster is a good choice for this shape, because the adjuster lets you shape the waist without changing the chest fit. A casual vest with a drawstring hem does the same job in a more relaxed style. Avoid a straight cut vest with no shaping, because it will either pull at the chest or hang loose at the waist, and neither looks right.

Tall and short frames

A tall frame needs length more than width. The back length must cover the waistband when you stand and when you sit, and the armholes must sit high enough that they do not droop. Look for a tall cut in your size, which adds length at the back and the front without adding width at the chest. A regular vest in a larger size will add width you do not need, so it is a poor fix for a short back length.

A short frame needs the opposite. A regular back length can cover the hips on a shorter person, which makes a suit vest look long and a casual vest look oversized. Look for a short cut, or check the stated back length against your own measurement before you order. The shoulder seam should sit on the shoulder, and the hem should end near the waistband, not halfway down the hips.

Fuller midsection

A fuller midsection needs a vest that closes without pulling at the middle buttons. That means starting with the size that fits the waist and chest together, even if the shoulders feel a little roomy. A button vest with buttons spaced closely together will pull less than one with wide spacing, because the strain is shared across more points. A zip vest can also work well, because the zip shares the strain along the whole front.

Avoid a vest with a tight waistband or a drawstring pulled hard at the hem, because it will emphasise the midsection rather than smoothing it. A vest with a straight front and a smooth line from the chest to the hem usually looks better, and a darker, plain fabric draws less attention to the fit than a bold pattern. The goal is a front that lies flat, not a front that squeezes.

Narrow shoulders and athletic builds

Narrow shoulders need a vest whose shoulder seam sits on the shoulder rather than drooping down the arm. If the shoulders droop, the whole vest looks too large, even when the chest fits. Look for a cut with a narrower shoulder, or a vest with a shaped shoulder rather than a straight one. A suit vest is often cut with a neater shoulder than a casual vest, so it can suit a narrow frame better.

An athletic build with broad shoulders and a narrow waist faces the same split as a broad chest, but at the shoulders. Start with the size that fits the shoulders, because a shoulder seam in the wrong place cannot be fixed by a tailor easily. Then use a back adjuster or a drawstring hem to shape the waist. A vest with stretch in the fabric can also help, because it moves with the shoulders without pulling at the chest.

Fit by shape at a glance

• Broad chest, narrow waist: buy for the chest, shape the waist with an adjuster.
• Tall frame: choose a tall cut for back length, not a larger size.
• Short frame: check the stated back length so the hem ends near the waistband.
• Fuller midsection: choose a size that closes without pulling at the middle.
• Narrow shoulders: look for a neater shoulder cut so the seam sits correctly.
• Athletic build: buy for the shoulders, then shape the waist.